Hot Dogs and Coney Sauce

Anybody can grill or boil a hot dog ... cooking it well takes such a little effort, and those "special" toppings can really make a special meal!

The outdoor grill can do wonders for even the worst frankfurter — so can the happy setting of the event. When the picnic was going well, I have had compliments about the cheapest chicken dogs. Likewise, I've had complaints about the most expensive ones when the day just doesn't "click."

As to what's in 'em, it may be best not to think about that … remember the adage that "laws and sausages are two things no one should ever see being made." Generally speaking, manufacturers buy 50% lean - 50% fat scraps from beef or pork packers, puree the meat, mix in seasonings, fillers and water, stuff it into cellulose casings and cook the resulting sausages. See, you didn't want to know that, did you, really?

Street vendors favor all-beef sausages because a substantial part of the public won't eat pork, and those all-beef dogs have a wonderful "something" about them. Chicken and turkey dogs can make a heavy meal a little lighter. As to the fat content, each style has its adherents, but let's be (pardon the pun) frank: you don't eat hot dogs because you want to lose weight.

Various methods of cooking the sausages each have fans. One famous national chain boils the dogs in beer. A "Food Network" special showed a midwestern outlet deep-frying hot dogs (they should install a courtesy phone to call the fat farm when you leave). Microwaving the meat can cook it without "boiling away" the flavor. And, if you prefer grilling but don't have a grill to add that "certain something," consider baking the sausages. Low and slow works if you are busy (250° for half an hour or more, up to 2 hours if you need to forget 'em and get other things ready) and you can go as high as 350° for 15 minutes. Any hotter and you risk burning them.

Toppings are also a matter of preference. Some people like yellow mustard and forswear catsup, others like sauerkraut only, and Chicago dog-eaters add everything from tomato to lettuce to cheese. Any way you serve them, hot dogs are a perennial favorite!

 CONEY ISLAND HOT DOG SAUCE

3 medium onions, chopped
2½ pounds ground meat
1½ teaspoons oregano
1½ teaspoon cumin
2 tablespoons sweet paprika
2 tablespoons chili powder
1 teaspoon garlic powder
1½ tablespoons salt
½ teaspoon cinnamon

Chop onions and boil in enough water to cover until completely cooked (at least 15 minutes). Add spices. Break up ground meat into small pieces and put into onion mixture. Simmer about 1 hour, stirring occasionally.

Reprinted here with permission of Wayne Keyser From the CDRom "On the Midway"

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